Today was a really cool day. Although I have seen glaciers in several locations (Glacier National Park, Alaska, and in the Canadian Rockies), I have never walked on more than the edge of one. Today we scheduled a full day hike on the FJ glacier, a 12 km glacier whose face terminates only 240 meters above sea level. It and the nearby Fox glacier are 2 of only three glaciers which occur at this southern latitude (the other one is in Argentina). Currently the glacier is advancing at a rate of about 15 centimeters a day. It is maintained by the massive rain and snowfall on its face; the record for one season snowfall at Franz Josef is 80 meters!! (average is around 40).
We arrived at the center are were equipped with over trousers, waterproof coats, hats, gloves, boots, and crampons. The crampons are sized to fit each size of rubber boots (which unfortunately weren't that comfortable). I didn't wind up wearing either the coat or pants, but it was nice to have them anyway. A bus takes us to the glacier field, and it is a 40 minute walk through a temperate rainforest and along a river bed to arrive at the glacier's base. At this point we put on our crampons, and divided into 4 groups.
The ascent onto the glacier is via a staircase with a guide rope. The guides are responsible for cutting steps with their ice axes in the steep parts, and it is not as easy as it looks. The first steps are large enough to walk up normally, but subsequent staircases were ascended or descended via the "Franz" in which you stand sideways and swing your free leg either in front or behind your standing leg and onto the next step. Once I got the hang of it, this was actually really fun.
Walking with crampons is also really fun (and it makes you feel cool). They're very useful for walking through all sorts of terrain up there, especially the loose ice. There were a number of crevasses which needed to be traversed via stairs and guide ropes. These crossings were definitely the bottleneck of our journey because only one person can go at a time and there were 44 people among the 4 groups doing day long hikes. Several girls in my group also provided a bottleneck. I couldn't tell if they were totally incompetent, or just frightened of everything.
The strangest part of the journey involved squirming through an ice cave, or wormhole. The ice in there is the beautiful bright blue usually associated with glaciers. It was also very slick and a little too close for comfort. It was an awesome experience, though. We almost made it to the top of the first ice fall (the 2 fastest groups did), which is further than they usually get. The views both down the glacier (to the ocean beyond) and up the glacier (to 2 other ice falls) were quite impressive.
Although I am a bit tired now and will probably be quite sore tomorrow, this trek was absolutely worthwhile. If I had time, I would visit the indoor ice climbing cave in town. I mean, how cool is that?
Sunday, April 29, 2007
The No-Good Very Bad Day
I woke up early the next morning to the sound of pouring rain and knew the sailing trip was out. After an outing to the bathroom in the other building, I decided to go back to bed. After all, there are few things nicer than sleeping to the sound of raindrops on a tin roof. However, I slept too late and woke up cranky and disoriented. I got all my clothes together for a shower, only to discover that everyone on our bus had decided to leave a day early... and our bus driver had neglected to wake me.
One bus had already left and the other was waiting for me to get dressed and shove all my stuff in bags. I had not seen anything of Abel Tasman park, but couldn't stay because the next bus wasn't coming for another three days. Most of the people I had really connected with were staying, and I was really bummed because I couldn't.
Anyway, I wound up on a bus with only 6 other people, and 5 of them were a clique of Irish and British girls, plus one couple. I felt like I was on a bus with people I didn't really like going to a place I didn't really want to go. It seemed as though I was always at odds with the majority, such as wanting to listen to Christmas music in April. Who wants to listen to x-mas music in April? Anyway, we arrived in the metropolis of Barrytown, population 12, and I was looking forward to this day being over. Little did I know.
We were staying at the pub, which also doubles as a hotel, on a Saturday night. Happy hour was from 8-9. If you want cheap drinks after that, you have to get dressed up in one of the many garments they've collected from patrons and the thrift store over the years. All of the men were cross-dressing, and it was a bit frightening how into it they were. Gollum, one of the bus drivers, wore a red negligee and tights. I found a bright pink dressing gown and decided what the hell. It turned into a really fun night. Go figure.
The next morning we were up for a bone carving workshop. This is a form of traditional Maori art that has become ubiquitous in NZ, but it was really fun learning the process. Transforming a piece of cow tibia into a beautiful object in only a few hours does prove oddly satisfying. It also involves multiple power tools, a dremel, 4 grades of sandpaper, and buffer. While we were at the studio, a woman with the most incredible jade pendant I've ever seen came over to visit. Of course it turned out she was a jade (NZ greenstone) carver and I asked if we could visit her studio.
We didn't visit the studio, but she did bring some pieces to show us. I'm not a huge fan of greenstone, but she did have some nice pieces in her limited supply. By far the best was a large piece she had made for an exposition... and it was a good deal. I settled on a smaller piece, and wound up having to finish the stringing myself since everyone on the bus was waiting. I wound up being glad I hadn't waited to buy something until we reached Hokitika since most of the nice smaller greenstone places were closed on Sundays.
I'm writing this from the Franz Josef glacier, a 12 km long icefield on the southwest coast of the South Island. We're going on a glacier trek tomorrow, which should be a great experience (I get to wear crampons :) However, the hostel is a bit of backpacker hell and I won't be sorry to leave it behind.
One bus had already left and the other was waiting for me to get dressed and shove all my stuff in bags. I had not seen anything of Abel Tasman park, but couldn't stay because the next bus wasn't coming for another three days. Most of the people I had really connected with were staying, and I was really bummed because I couldn't.
Anyway, I wound up on a bus with only 6 other people, and 5 of them were a clique of Irish and British girls, plus one couple. I felt like I was on a bus with people I didn't really like going to a place I didn't really want to go. It seemed as though I was always at odds with the majority, such as wanting to listen to Christmas music in April. Who wants to listen to x-mas music in April? Anyway, we arrived in the metropolis of Barrytown, population 12, and I was looking forward to this day being over. Little did I know.
We were staying at the pub, which also doubles as a hotel, on a Saturday night. Happy hour was from 8-9. If you want cheap drinks after that, you have to get dressed up in one of the many garments they've collected from patrons and the thrift store over the years. All of the men were cross-dressing, and it was a bit frightening how into it they were. Gollum, one of the bus drivers, wore a red negligee and tights. I found a bright pink dressing gown and decided what the hell. It turned into a really fun night. Go figure.
The next morning we were up for a bone carving workshop. This is a form of traditional Maori art that has become ubiquitous in NZ, but it was really fun learning the process. Transforming a piece of cow tibia into a beautiful object in only a few hours does prove oddly satisfying. It also involves multiple power tools, a dremel, 4 grades of sandpaper, and buffer. While we were at the studio, a woman with the most incredible jade pendant I've ever seen came over to visit. Of course it turned out she was a jade (NZ greenstone) carver and I asked if we could visit her studio.
We didn't visit the studio, but she did bring some pieces to show us. I'm not a huge fan of greenstone, but she did have some nice pieces in her limited supply. By far the best was a large piece she had made for an exposition... and it was a good deal. I settled on a smaller piece, and wound up having to finish the stringing myself since everyone on the bus was waiting. I wound up being glad I hadn't waited to buy something until we reached Hokitika since most of the nice smaller greenstone places were closed on Sundays.
I'm writing this from the Franz Josef glacier, a 12 km long icefield on the southwest coast of the South Island. We're going on a glacier trek tomorrow, which should be a great experience (I get to wear crampons :) However, the hostel is a bit of backpacker hell and I won't be sorry to leave it behind.
The catch-up post
I've not managed to post for a few days and as a result my activities have piled up behind me. Here's what I hope will be a brief description of what I've been up to.
Leaving Kaikoura, we drove up the coast for about 20 minutes to the much larger Mt. Hope seal colony. Although we were a bit far away from our vantage point above them and along the road, seeing them was still a fantastic experience. Seals were lounging everywhere on the rocks which form this part of the rugged coastline. My favorite part, however, were the groups of juvenile seals (probably last year's batch of pups). They tended to chase each other through the waves or wrestle in small pools formed by depressions in the rock. Because there was at least one adult seal watching them, it seemed like she had drawn kiddy pool duty for that day!!
From Kaikoura we headed up to Picton to bring people to and from the ferry to the North Island and Wellington. The bus then headed through the Marlborough region, home to NZ's largest concentration of winemakers. We stopped at a vineyard for wine tasting... how did I wind up being the only person to buy any wine? Hmmm...
I had the time and so decided to stop for a day in Nelson, billed as the sunniest city on the South Island. It also happens to house a large arts and crafts community, so I knew this would be a dangerous place to stop!! I wound up getting off the bus with a nice Dutch girl named Maaike, and we found a small charming hostel called Accents on the Park. I didn't even care that I once again had a top bunk, since the beds proved to be so comfortable.
I spent the next afternoon on a wine and brewery tour of the Nelson region. There were only 11 of us in the shuttle, and our guide, Marion, was really a hoot. The best wine we tasted was a noble rot Riesling, a dessert wine made from grapes naturally infected with the botyrus fungus. It was exquisite, but also $50, so alas I didn't buy a bottle. The brewery at the end was also a great time. They have something like 20 different beers on tap, and we could sample as many as we wanted. I wound up taking home a 2 liter bottle of "Wobbly Boot", a very nice porter-style brew. You'll be happy to know that Worthington's also brewed the official beer used in Lord of the Rings. For pete's sake!!
I had until 3 pm the next day before being picked up by the bus, and used that time to go on an arts tour of the town. Such a bad idea... I loved everything. There are weavers, knitters, potters, felters, woodturners, leather artists, glass blowers, and jewelers. Did I mention the jewelers? On the plus side, I've pretty much done all of mom's birthday shopping for her. If pottery weren't so expensive to ship home, I would have had a field day.
I got on the bus and we arrived in the dark and rain to Abel Tasman National Park, a coastal enclave in the northwest corner of the south island. We were staying on a farm, and I had an adorable little 3 bed hut all to myself. I planned to do a combination hike and sail the next day, which would also involve seeing another seal colony.
Leaving Kaikoura, we drove up the coast for about 20 minutes to the much larger Mt. Hope seal colony. Although we were a bit far away from our vantage point above them and along the road, seeing them was still a fantastic experience. Seals were lounging everywhere on the rocks which form this part of the rugged coastline. My favorite part, however, were the groups of juvenile seals (probably last year's batch of pups). They tended to chase each other through the waves or wrestle in small pools formed by depressions in the rock. Because there was at least one adult seal watching them, it seemed like she had drawn kiddy pool duty for that day!!
From Kaikoura we headed up to Picton to bring people to and from the ferry to the North Island and Wellington. The bus then headed through the Marlborough region, home to NZ's largest concentration of winemakers. We stopped at a vineyard for wine tasting... how did I wind up being the only person to buy any wine? Hmmm...
I had the time and so decided to stop for a day in Nelson, billed as the sunniest city on the South Island. It also happens to house a large arts and crafts community, so I knew this would be a dangerous place to stop!! I wound up getting off the bus with a nice Dutch girl named Maaike, and we found a small charming hostel called Accents on the Park. I didn't even care that I once again had a top bunk, since the beds proved to be so comfortable.
I spent the next afternoon on a wine and brewery tour of the Nelson region. There were only 11 of us in the shuttle, and our guide, Marion, was really a hoot. The best wine we tasted was a noble rot Riesling, a dessert wine made from grapes naturally infected with the botyrus fungus. It was exquisite, but also $50, so alas I didn't buy a bottle. The brewery at the end was also a great time. They have something like 20 different beers on tap, and we could sample as many as we wanted. I wound up taking home a 2 liter bottle of "Wobbly Boot", a very nice porter-style brew. You'll be happy to know that Worthington's also brewed the official beer used in Lord of the Rings. For pete's sake!!
I had until 3 pm the next day before being picked up by the bus, and used that time to go on an arts tour of the town. Such a bad idea... I loved everything. There are weavers, knitters, potters, felters, woodturners, leather artists, glass blowers, and jewelers. Did I mention the jewelers? On the plus side, I've pretty much done all of mom's birthday shopping for her. If pottery weren't so expensive to ship home, I would have had a field day.
I got on the bus and we arrived in the dark and rain to Abel Tasman National Park, a coastal enclave in the northwest corner of the south island. We were staying on a farm, and I had an adorable little 3 bed hut all to myself. I planned to do a combination hike and sail the next day, which would also involve seeing another seal colony.
Thursday, April 26, 2007
Swimming with Dolphins
We drove from Christchurch to Kaikoura in the morning, arriving around noon. It was a beautiful drive along the coast, mirroring the route taken by the scenic TranzCoastal railway. I was a bit anxious during the ride, though, as we kept running late, eventually having to stop so that a person we had left behind could catch up. Despite my misapprehensions, however, we did arrive in time for the orientation for the dolphin swim.
Due to its unique geography, the coastal town of Kaikoura is home to an astonishing range of marine life, from Orcas to sperm whales to dusky dolphins. The dolphins swim wild in large pods and naturally travel up and down the coast each day. Because they are wild animals, they are basically consenting to have people swim with them. They could easily move away if they found their interactions with people threatening or uninteresting. In this vein, we were told, the dolphins are not there to entertain us. We are there to entertain the dolphins.
First we needed to suit up against the cold water (although at 16 deg C it was actually fairly tolerable). We were each given a 2 piece 5 mil wetsuit with booties, a hood, flippers, and a mask and snorkel. We put on the wet suits on land and wore them through the information session and bus ride to the boats, of which there were two. The ride out to find the dolphin pod was lovely (except for the fact I was on a boat, of course). The sun reflected off the turquoise sea and set off the surrounding mountain ranges.
After about 20 minutes, we spotted a large pod of dolphins swimming, jumping, and travelling together. The whistle blew and we all pushed ourselves off the back of the boat into the water. Despite the forewarning, getting into the water nearly took my breath away. It seemed difficult to breathe, and my hands, the only part of my body not protected from the water, immediately went numb. My initial thought was that this experience was not going to be the incredible ride I was anticipating.
Time and patience proved me wrong, of course. Both my lungs and body acclimated themselves to the water and breathing became much easier. I began to work on my dolphin entertainment skills: to attract a dolphin, you must behave like a dolphin. This involves keeping the arms by the sides and moving through dolphin kicks, diving down into the water to encourage dolphins to follow you, and best of all, making ridiculous noises through your snorkel. Imagine a group of about 20 people in wetsuits all dolphin kicking on the surface of the water while an utter cacophony of nonsense drifts up from their masks. No doubt the spectators on the boats found this utter hilarious. But it worked!!
Dolphins surged above us, below us, and all around us. They were frequently close enough to touch, although we were not allowed to. Their blowholes and any variations or blemishes on their smooth skin were immediately evident. The power of these sleek creatures is overwhelming. Frequently I would attract a dolphin's interest, and he or she would begin to swim in circles around me, as if daring me to keep up. Well who on earth can keep up with a dolphin in water, let alone me? I did my best, but the constant swimming in circles did make me feel quite queasy, despite the grandeur of the day and my carefully consumed anti-nausea medication. Ah well.
Once out of the water and in dry clothes, we were able to observe the dolphins from the comfort of our boat, and what a show they put on for us. The pod would surge all around the boat, frequently swimming under us and emerging at the other side. Dolphins cruised just at the water's surface, their dorsal fins evident in sharp relief against the smooth sea. The most energetic dolphins turned cartwheels and somersaults out of the water, sometimes 5 or 6 in a row.
Perhaps I am prone to anthropomorphize them, but dolphins truly seem to exhibit a joy and a lust for life. They are one of the animal species which seems most capable of having fun. They swam with us because they wanted to, not because they were under any obligation. And they leap for the joy of it; this behavior doesn't help them secure food or pass their genes on to the next generation.
I felt very privileged to have had this experience, even though it proved once again that I am a hopeless landlubber :)
Due to its unique geography, the coastal town of Kaikoura is home to an astonishing range of marine life, from Orcas to sperm whales to dusky dolphins. The dolphins swim wild in large pods and naturally travel up and down the coast each day. Because they are wild animals, they are basically consenting to have people swim with them. They could easily move away if they found their interactions with people threatening or uninteresting. In this vein, we were told, the dolphins are not there to entertain us. We are there to entertain the dolphins.
First we needed to suit up against the cold water (although at 16 deg C it was actually fairly tolerable). We were each given a 2 piece 5 mil wetsuit with booties, a hood, flippers, and a mask and snorkel. We put on the wet suits on land and wore them through the information session and bus ride to the boats, of which there were two. The ride out to find the dolphin pod was lovely (except for the fact I was on a boat, of course). The sun reflected off the turquoise sea and set off the surrounding mountain ranges.
After about 20 minutes, we spotted a large pod of dolphins swimming, jumping, and travelling together. The whistle blew and we all pushed ourselves off the back of the boat into the water. Despite the forewarning, getting into the water nearly took my breath away. It seemed difficult to breathe, and my hands, the only part of my body not protected from the water, immediately went numb. My initial thought was that this experience was not going to be the incredible ride I was anticipating.
Time and patience proved me wrong, of course. Both my lungs and body acclimated themselves to the water and breathing became much easier. I began to work on my dolphin entertainment skills: to attract a dolphin, you must behave like a dolphin. This involves keeping the arms by the sides and moving through dolphin kicks, diving down into the water to encourage dolphins to follow you, and best of all, making ridiculous noises through your snorkel. Imagine a group of about 20 people in wetsuits all dolphin kicking on the surface of the water while an utter cacophony of nonsense drifts up from their masks. No doubt the spectators on the boats found this utter hilarious. But it worked!!
Dolphins surged above us, below us, and all around us. They were frequently close enough to touch, although we were not allowed to. Their blowholes and any variations or blemishes on their smooth skin were immediately evident. The power of these sleek creatures is overwhelming. Frequently I would attract a dolphin's interest, and he or she would begin to swim in circles around me, as if daring me to keep up. Well who on earth can keep up with a dolphin in water, let alone me? I did my best, but the constant swimming in circles did make me feel quite queasy, despite the grandeur of the day and my carefully consumed anti-nausea medication. Ah well.
Once out of the water and in dry clothes, we were able to observe the dolphins from the comfort of our boat, and what a show they put on for us. The pod would surge all around the boat, frequently swimming under us and emerging at the other side. Dolphins cruised just at the water's surface, their dorsal fins evident in sharp relief against the smooth sea. The most energetic dolphins turned cartwheels and somersaults out of the water, sometimes 5 or 6 in a row.
Perhaps I am prone to anthropomorphize them, but dolphins truly seem to exhibit a joy and a lust for life. They are one of the animal species which seems most capable of having fun. They swam with us because they wanted to, not because they were under any obligation. And they leap for the joy of it; this behavior doesn't help them secure food or pass their genes on to the next generation.
I felt very privileged to have had this experience, even though it proved once again that I am a hopeless landlubber :)
Monday, April 23, 2007
Horse Trekking in Rangitata
Well, I am starting to satisfy my animal fix. I started off small at the Milford underwater observatory with black coral (which is an animal, BTW), giant mussels, sea cucumbers, starfish, and lots of fish. Occasionally these are pursued by a hunting bird, seal, or dolphin, but we were not lucky enough to see those. The next day I headed north to Rangitata, home of NZ's best white water rafting, and horse trekking in the Peel Forest.
We arrived at this wonderful wooden A-frame building heated by a wood-burning stove (there've been lots of these in NZ so far). I spent a very relaxing afternoon reading by the fire and drinking copious cups of tea. We were briefly joined by Sophie (aka Duck Face), an extremely well behaved black lab. She would not come inside the building, per her training, and could be trusted not to eat food until instructed to. I know so many dogs who could happily follow her example!!
The next morning I got picked up for my two hour horse trek. My mount was Craig, a 4 year old Standardbred track reject. He was saved from the abattoir due to his calm temperament--perfect for a trail horse. My guide was Patrick, a crusty old man who had spent his life around horses and used to fly with racing horses all over the world. Craig was a great horse, except for his tendency to want to munch grass while walking, and to walk too closely to objects on his left side, conveniently forgetting that my leg also needed room to pass!!
We walked along the road, through fields and forests, across streams, and even through some rocky and sandy beaches. When I first got on, I thought my butt would never last the two hours. After a while, however, you do find your seat and meld much better with both the saddle and the horse. This didn't prevent me from staggering a bit when I dismounted, but my land legs soon returned. I can't remember the last time I rode a horse, so this was a terrific re-introduction. Now I need to learn how to go faster than a walk!!
Tomorrow I'm heading to Kaikoura, further north on the East Coast, to swim with a pod of wild dolphins in the ocean. The water will be freezing, but hopefully our wetsuits will be adequate to the conditions. It should be awesome...
We arrived at this wonderful wooden A-frame building heated by a wood-burning stove (there've been lots of these in NZ so far). I spent a very relaxing afternoon reading by the fire and drinking copious cups of tea. We were briefly joined by Sophie (aka Duck Face), an extremely well behaved black lab. She would not come inside the building, per her training, and could be trusted not to eat food until instructed to. I know so many dogs who could happily follow her example!!
The next morning I got picked up for my two hour horse trek. My mount was Craig, a 4 year old Standardbred track reject. He was saved from the abattoir due to his calm temperament--perfect for a trail horse. My guide was Patrick, a crusty old man who had spent his life around horses and used to fly with racing horses all over the world. Craig was a great horse, except for his tendency to want to munch grass while walking, and to walk too closely to objects on his left side, conveniently forgetting that my leg also needed room to pass!!
We walked along the road, through fields and forests, across streams, and even through some rocky and sandy beaches. When I first got on, I thought my butt would never last the two hours. After a while, however, you do find your seat and meld much better with both the saddle and the horse. This didn't prevent me from staggering a bit when I dismounted, but my land legs soon returned. I can't remember the last time I rode a horse, so this was a terrific re-introduction. Now I need to learn how to go faster than a walk!!
Tomorrow I'm heading to Kaikoura, further north on the East Coast, to swim with a pod of wild dolphins in the ocean. The water will be freezing, but hopefully our wetsuits will be adequate to the conditions. It should be awesome...
Saturday, April 21, 2007
Milford Sound
It's really been a jam-packed 4 days, just wonderful. I got picked up this morning in Te Anau by a bus headed for Milford Sound, one of the most popular sights on the South Island (or in NZ, for that matter). Although as we learned on the cruise, Milford is technically a fjord, having been formed through glaciation. Sounds result from water erosion alone (FYI).
This was the "Kiwi Experience" bus, which has a bit of a reputation as a party bus. The driver certainly was a character, and except for the one guy wearing sunglasses at 9 am on a very cloudy day, the passengers seemed OK. The drive from the divide into Milford is amazing. For one thing, the white-out conditions were magically replaced by blue sky as we crossed over. The mountains keep coming closer and closer until you are forced to drive through one... and apparently the workers used 100 kg (220 lbs) of explosives for every 25 cm (~10 in) of progress creating this one lane tunnel. The road on the other side is a series of hairpin turns down to sea level and the Milford Sound.
The sound is actually not very big, but more than compensates with its grandeur. It is a deep, deep pool surrounded on all sides by mountains rising straight from the sea. They are at times bare, covered by tenacious, stunted trees clinging by what seems like sheer strength of will, or home to sheets of cascading water. The surface of the sound itself is quite calm, at times reflecting the mountains above it. Even though this is enormous tourist attraction, it is enough of the off season now that the sound didn't seem too overcrowded. Of course, we were sharing the boat with two busloads of Korean tourists. Watching them all shouting and constantly taking pictures of each other provided just great entertainment!!
We also visited the Milford underwater observatory, 9 meters down. The high levels of rainfall in the sound create a unique environment, with the saltwater covered by a layer of freshwater which then produces a filtering effect. Because of this, deep water animals can live much closer to the surface here then they normally would, and we get to see them!!
Then it was back on the bus for the long slog back to Queenstown. Between Te Anau and Queenstown, there is nothing except miles and miles of patchwork fields covered by herds of cows, sheep, and deer. This beautiful landscape is utterly devoid of people, except for those in the occasional farm buildings out on each station. The approach to Queenstown along the west side of Lake Wakitipu was also magnificent. The road curves high along the lake edge, affording great views of the peaks beyond the water. Add in a setting sun, and you get the idea.
I'm now going to take all my belongings out of the garbage bags where they have been living for the last four days and attempt to find room for them in my backpack. Wish me luck.
This was the "Kiwi Experience" bus, which has a bit of a reputation as a party bus. The driver certainly was a character, and except for the one guy wearing sunglasses at 9 am on a very cloudy day, the passengers seemed OK. The drive from the divide into Milford is amazing. For one thing, the white-out conditions were magically replaced by blue sky as we crossed over. The mountains keep coming closer and closer until you are forced to drive through one... and apparently the workers used 100 kg (220 lbs) of explosives for every 25 cm (~10 in) of progress creating this one lane tunnel. The road on the other side is a series of hairpin turns down to sea level and the Milford Sound.
The sound is actually not very big, but more than compensates with its grandeur. It is a deep, deep pool surrounded on all sides by mountains rising straight from the sea. They are at times bare, covered by tenacious, stunted trees clinging by what seems like sheer strength of will, or home to sheets of cascading water. The surface of the sound itself is quite calm, at times reflecting the mountains above it. Even though this is enormous tourist attraction, it is enough of the off season now that the sound didn't seem too overcrowded. Of course, we were sharing the boat with two busloads of Korean tourists. Watching them all shouting and constantly taking pictures of each other provided just great entertainment!!
We also visited the Milford underwater observatory, 9 meters down. The high levels of rainfall in the sound create a unique environment, with the saltwater covered by a layer of freshwater which then produces a filtering effect. Because of this, deep water animals can live much closer to the surface here then they normally would, and we get to see them!!
Then it was back on the bus for the long slog back to Queenstown. Between Te Anau and Queenstown, there is nothing except miles and miles of patchwork fields covered by herds of cows, sheep, and deer. This beautiful landscape is utterly devoid of people, except for those in the occasional farm buildings out on each station. The approach to Queenstown along the west side of Lake Wakitipu was also magnificent. The road curves high along the lake edge, affording great views of the peaks beyond the water. Add in a setting sun, and you get the idea.
I'm now going to take all my belongings out of the garbage bags where they have been living for the last four days and attempt to find room for them in my backpack. Wish me luck.
Thursday, April 19, 2007
Hiking the Routeburn Track
I'm in Te Anau after coming off the Routeburn Track this afternoon, and I am sore. I'm also craving pizza and beer, but that can be easily remedied. The hike was amazing. We had three days of clear weather (very unusual for the area), and I did not re-injure my ankle or freeze any appendages. It was, however, much more challenging than I anticipated 32 km spread over three days would be. Perhaps it was my sub-optimal pack, or the fact I seemed to be carrying too much weight (cheese, anyone?). More likely it was my asthma and less than optimal cardiovascular system. But I made it and I'm so glad I did.
The track starts at the head of a long glacial lake and climbs gradually through a forest dark with moss covered streams and strewn with boulders. Water is everywhere; often the track is wet with it, and there are innumerable stream crossings. The first few are on suspension bridges, which sway far more than you think they ought to!! At about noon, you reach the Routeburn Falls hut, which sits on a grassy plain along a stream surrounded by mountains. I wound up spending a very long lunch break chatting with two Americans from California and a hysterical trio of fellow hikers.
It's only 1:30 to the next hut, but that time is all uphill on an extremely rocky trail. Everyone who has ever hiked with me knows that I do not have the best balance on the trail, and I was especially concerned about my bad ankle given my hiking shoes do not provide ankle support. So I took my time (I think I was the last hiker to the hut), but I arrived safely at the Routeburn Falls Hut.
These DOC huts are really something else. From October through April, the huts are supplied by helicopter and provide a coal burning stove, gas burners, running water, flush toilets, and bunk beds. Talk about the lap of luxury!! OK, it was really cold in the bunkhouse, but otherwise the facilities are amazing. The warden, John, turned out to be a real character. He took us for a walk after dinner to look at NZ glowworms, and finally explained to me the location of the Southern Cross (yes, I am an idiot). This was one of the brightest, fullest skies I've ever seen, even if all the constellations are upside down!!
John has travellers who speak unusual languages write messages on a large banner which he then displays. On the one from Christmas, there were visitors speaking Tamil, Burmese, and Urdu, among others. It is astounding what a diverse range of people visit this little corner of NZ. I offered to write something in Swahili, which John didn't have and got very excited about. Then of course I couldn't remember any of the relevant words!! I wound up just writing "Karibuni ya Routeburn Falls. Walima ni safi kabisa" which means "Welcome to RF. The mountains are awesome." He made me a cup of tea for my efforts (I was writing this with a brush in green paint, which takes a while), and I got to chatting with him and Jeff and Jennifer, two Californians who were staying with him. Anyway, we wound up having a great time and I didn't go to bed until nearly 1 am.
Not only was it much warmer in the cabin than in the bunkhouse, but I got served breakfast in bed!! wow. It was a beautiful sunny morning and we all didn't want to leave the cabin's porch with its phenomenal view of the mountains. I finally headed off about 10 am, and said my goodbyes. This portion of the hike is all above the treeline, and I reached the Harris Saddle (highest point on the track) at about 12:30. Everyone I met said the trip up Conical Hill was a slog, but worth it. As I reached the top about 40 minutes later, after scrambling up rocks and between crevices, I thought that was an apt description. The views of the surrounding mountains were incredible, and I could even see the waves breaking on the shore of the Abel Tasman Sea in the distance.
The trip to the Mackenzie Hut, although mostly downhill, was surprisingly difficult. Much of the trail involved descending from one large, irregular rock to the next large, irregular rock. It was difficult on my knees, but more so on my ankles. I may have been the last person to arrive at Mackenzie Hut, but I made it. This one was much warmer due to the lower elevation on the far side. Dinner this time was better as well: Mac and Cheese with dehydrated onions and peas. Well, anything tastes better on the trail, really :)
The third day involved a lot of ridge walking, which I enjoyed. After the first rocky section, the trail smoothed out and I didn't have to concentrate so much on my footing. It was a shame to enter the trees again, because it felt a bit like walking in a big green tunnel, with occasional glimpses of the surrounding mountains. Once again numerous waterfalls cascaded down jumbled rocks into the river far below. I arrived at Howden Hut at noon, in time for lunch. I was getting a bit tired of my "tasty cheese" (their term for sharp cheddar) and pita at this point. There was only a short steep climb up to the key summit, and then a gradual downhill to the trail's end at the Divide. A shuttle picked me up at 3:15 for the trip to Te Anau.
What an amazing experience!!
The track starts at the head of a long glacial lake and climbs gradually through a forest dark with moss covered streams and strewn with boulders. Water is everywhere; often the track is wet with it, and there are innumerable stream crossings. The first few are on suspension bridges, which sway far more than you think they ought to!! At about noon, you reach the Routeburn Falls hut, which sits on a grassy plain along a stream surrounded by mountains. I wound up spending a very long lunch break chatting with two Americans from California and a hysterical trio of fellow hikers.
It's only 1:30 to the next hut, but that time is all uphill on an extremely rocky trail. Everyone who has ever hiked with me knows that I do not have the best balance on the trail, and I was especially concerned about my bad ankle given my hiking shoes do not provide ankle support. So I took my time (I think I was the last hiker to the hut), but I arrived safely at the Routeburn Falls Hut.
These DOC huts are really something else. From October through April, the huts are supplied by helicopter and provide a coal burning stove, gas burners, running water, flush toilets, and bunk beds. Talk about the lap of luxury!! OK, it was really cold in the bunkhouse, but otherwise the facilities are amazing. The warden, John, turned out to be a real character. He took us for a walk after dinner to look at NZ glowworms, and finally explained to me the location of the Southern Cross (yes, I am an idiot). This was one of the brightest, fullest skies I've ever seen, even if all the constellations are upside down!!
John has travellers who speak unusual languages write messages on a large banner which he then displays. On the one from Christmas, there were visitors speaking Tamil, Burmese, and Urdu, among others. It is astounding what a diverse range of people visit this little corner of NZ. I offered to write something in Swahili, which John didn't have and got very excited about. Then of course I couldn't remember any of the relevant words!! I wound up just writing "Karibuni ya Routeburn Falls. Walima ni safi kabisa" which means "Welcome to RF. The mountains are awesome." He made me a cup of tea for my efforts (I was writing this with a brush in green paint, which takes a while), and I got to chatting with him and Jeff and Jennifer, two Californians who were staying with him. Anyway, we wound up having a great time and I didn't go to bed until nearly 1 am.
Not only was it much warmer in the cabin than in the bunkhouse, but I got served breakfast in bed!! wow. It was a beautiful sunny morning and we all didn't want to leave the cabin's porch with its phenomenal view of the mountains. I finally headed off about 10 am, and said my goodbyes. This portion of the hike is all above the treeline, and I reached the Harris Saddle (highest point on the track) at about 12:30. Everyone I met said the trip up Conical Hill was a slog, but worth it. As I reached the top about 40 minutes later, after scrambling up rocks and between crevices, I thought that was an apt description. The views of the surrounding mountains were incredible, and I could even see the waves breaking on the shore of the Abel Tasman Sea in the distance.
The trip to the Mackenzie Hut, although mostly downhill, was surprisingly difficult. Much of the trail involved descending from one large, irregular rock to the next large, irregular rock. It was difficult on my knees, but more so on my ankles. I may have been the last person to arrive at Mackenzie Hut, but I made it. This one was much warmer due to the lower elevation on the far side. Dinner this time was better as well: Mac and Cheese with dehydrated onions and peas. Well, anything tastes better on the trail, really :)
The third day involved a lot of ridge walking, which I enjoyed. After the first rocky section, the trail smoothed out and I didn't have to concentrate so much on my footing. It was a shame to enter the trees again, because it felt a bit like walking in a big green tunnel, with occasional glimpses of the surrounding mountains. Once again numerous waterfalls cascaded down jumbled rocks into the river far below. I arrived at Howden Hut at noon, in time for lunch. I was getting a bit tired of my "tasty cheese" (their term for sharp cheddar) and pita at this point. There was only a short steep climb up to the key summit, and then a gradual downhill to the trail's end at the Divide. A shuttle picked me up at 3:15 for the trip to Te Anau.
What an amazing experience!!
Sunday, April 15, 2007
SHEEP (and other creatures)
I spent a largely uneventful last day in Chch, visiting the Gondola in the morning. The expected fantastic views over Littleton Harbor didn't really materialize, although the journey up and down was still nice. I saw my first 100% NZ sheep dotting the landscape under the lift on the way up. The rest of the day I spent wandering around before again visiting Dux de Lux for dinner. The seafood chowder wasn't the best choice, but they definitely redeemed themselves with dessert (something called Buffoni pie, which is basically a banana creme pie, but so much better).
I was up quite early this morning to catch the bus to Queenstown, the "adventure capital" of the South Island. Actually, I was up much earlier due to the loud disruptive snoring coming from the bed across the room. I think they should have separate dorm rooms for snorers so they can keep each other up and see how it feels :)
The bus ride was actually quite nice. The bus driver was quiet and polite, and we didn't make any unnecessary stops: one bathroom break and another for lunch. I did sleep for a couple hours in the beginning, but awoke to see plains of grass backed by the snow-covered peaks of the Southern Alps, which form the backbone of the South Island. These plains were dotted with what looked like rocks, but soon turned out to be sheep, thousands of sheep. I have heard that NZ boasts ten times more sheep than people (40 million of them, sheep that is) but it is quite another thing to see them with your own eyes. The landscape was also dotted with horses, cows (both dairy and beef), alpacas, and what look like deer. I need to ask about them.
We also passed lake Tekapo and Pukaki, both of which are truly stunning. They remind me a great deal of Lake Louise in the Canadian Rockies, since all these lakes were formed by the same process: glacial melt. The striking blue-green water is framed by mountain peaks on all sides, and the road winds around giving you uninterrupted views across the water. The unique turquoise color of the water is again due to rock flour, particles of finely ground silt from the mountains suspended in the water.
I've arrived in Queenstown, which is quite a happening place. I was able to arrange everything for my hike of the Routeburn track at the tracks and info office. It'll be a three day hike, starting Wednesday. At the end on Friday, I'll catch the bus to Te Anau and then go on Saturday for a cruise on Milford Sound and then back to Queenstown. I'm so happy at how easy it was to coordinate all the logistics. But then again, many people hike the Routeburn each year.
I was up quite early this morning to catch the bus to Queenstown, the "adventure capital" of the South Island. Actually, I was up much earlier due to the loud disruptive snoring coming from the bed across the room. I think they should have separate dorm rooms for snorers so they can keep each other up and see how it feels :)
The bus ride was actually quite nice. The bus driver was quiet and polite, and we didn't make any unnecessary stops: one bathroom break and another for lunch. I did sleep for a couple hours in the beginning, but awoke to see plains of grass backed by the snow-covered peaks of the Southern Alps, which form the backbone of the South Island. These plains were dotted with what looked like rocks, but soon turned out to be sheep, thousands of sheep. I have heard that NZ boasts ten times more sheep than people (40 million of them, sheep that is) but it is quite another thing to see them with your own eyes. The landscape was also dotted with horses, cows (both dairy and beef), alpacas, and what look like deer. I need to ask about them.
We also passed lake Tekapo and Pukaki, both of which are truly stunning. They remind me a great deal of Lake Louise in the Canadian Rockies, since all these lakes were formed by the same process: glacial melt. The striking blue-green water is framed by mountain peaks on all sides, and the road winds around giving you uninterrupted views across the water. The unique turquoise color of the water is again due to rock flour, particles of finely ground silt from the mountains suspended in the water.
I've arrived in Queenstown, which is quite a happening place. I was able to arrange everything for my hike of the Routeburn track at the tracks and info office. It'll be a three day hike, starting Wednesday. At the end on Friday, I'll catch the bus to Te Anau and then go on Saturday for a cruise on Milford Sound and then back to Queenstown. I'm so happy at how easy it was to coordinate all the logistics. But then again, many people hike the Routeburn each year.
Friday, April 13, 2007
Arts and Crafts
Christchurch (hereby to be abbreviated as Chch, per the locals) is definitely looking up. Of course, this did involve a change in the weather and the purchase of wool items to cover just about every part of my body. I could be a walking advertisement for the NZ wool industry at this point, but I'm warm so I really don't care.
Chch started looking up yesterday when I discovered a truly awesome NZ brand of merino outdoor wear, called Icebreaker, on sale at a local outdoor store. I had first seen it in Australia, and resolved to check it out when I actually got to NZ. I am now the proud owner of a purple zip-neck sweater, complete with thumb loops (which in my opinion make the whole thing). I also went to the most excellent restaurant for dinner, called Dux de Lux (thanks, Dan). As far as I'm concerned, it's pretty much the perfect place. They only serve vegetarian items and seafood, brew their own beer, and offer live music on-site. Really, what more could you want?
I was actually warm while sleeping last night, and woke up to discover that the weather had changed. The fierce wind and overcast skies had been replaced by bright sun and blue sky. It's still not Australia, but it feels quite pleasant in the sun. I ate breakfast with two locals who gave me tons of travel tips, and then headed to the Arts Center.
If Dux de Lux is the perfect restaurant, then the Arts Center is the perfect shopping venue. The city has converted an old brick and stone college building into artists' studios, galleries, cafes, and an exhibit on Ernst Rutherford, NZ's most famous scientist. On the weekends additional crafts vendors set up booths outside. Let's just say that I did my best to support the local economy. I even bought a small piece of pottery (it was a cat, I couldn't resist), which I will now have to try not to break for the next month.
I also discovered the joys of merino possum, a fiber combining merino wool with possum fur. Unfortunately, you have to kill the possums to make it. However, I do understand that the possum is an introduced species which has no natural predators in NZ and is killing native wildlife and consuming their food sources. New Zealanders hate them more than anything, and have developed this industry as a profitable way to use the possum. I just want to know what happens to all the meat (dog food?).
I now own a hat and scarf made from this wonder fiber. I also own the most excellent pair of convertable gloves/mittens, purchased from the local weaving/spinning co-op. Since my fingers are cold and I'm not yet good enough to make these on my own, I don't feel bad about buying a pair knit by someone else.
Lunch was also unique, purchased from a food truck on-site. This one was Czech and offered big potato pancakes topped with various things. I got mine with cheese and salad, and it was like eating a huge potato latke, with some veggies on top for fun.
I managed to happily spend all day at the Arts Center, with some sun breaks in the courtyard to listen to local music. I ended the day with a quick trip to the Christchurch art gallery to check out their exhibit on contemporary Maori weaving. Many of the items were interpretations of ceremonial capes, woven out of flax and other plant fibers and lavishly decorated with paua shell, bird feathers, and other natural items. The baskets were also quite interesting, ranging from functional to purely decorative.
It's been quite a day. The locals at breakfast assured me that tomorrow would be clear (and I'm holding them to it), which invites a trip up the gondola to a lookout point above the city.
Chch started looking up yesterday when I discovered a truly awesome NZ brand of merino outdoor wear, called Icebreaker, on sale at a local outdoor store. I had first seen it in Australia, and resolved to check it out when I actually got to NZ. I am now the proud owner of a purple zip-neck sweater, complete with thumb loops (which in my opinion make the whole thing). I also went to the most excellent restaurant for dinner, called Dux de Lux (thanks, Dan). As far as I'm concerned, it's pretty much the perfect place. They only serve vegetarian items and seafood, brew their own beer, and offer live music on-site. Really, what more could you want?
I was actually warm while sleeping last night, and woke up to discover that the weather had changed. The fierce wind and overcast skies had been replaced by bright sun and blue sky. It's still not Australia, but it feels quite pleasant in the sun. I ate breakfast with two locals who gave me tons of travel tips, and then headed to the Arts Center.
If Dux de Lux is the perfect restaurant, then the Arts Center is the perfect shopping venue. The city has converted an old brick and stone college building into artists' studios, galleries, cafes, and an exhibit on Ernst Rutherford, NZ's most famous scientist. On the weekends additional crafts vendors set up booths outside. Let's just say that I did my best to support the local economy. I even bought a small piece of pottery (it was a cat, I couldn't resist), which I will now have to try not to break for the next month.
I also discovered the joys of merino possum, a fiber combining merino wool with possum fur. Unfortunately, you have to kill the possums to make it. However, I do understand that the possum is an introduced species which has no natural predators in NZ and is killing native wildlife and consuming their food sources. New Zealanders hate them more than anything, and have developed this industry as a profitable way to use the possum. I just want to know what happens to all the meat (dog food?).
I now own a hat and scarf made from this wonder fiber. I also own the most excellent pair of convertable gloves/mittens, purchased from the local weaving/spinning co-op. Since my fingers are cold and I'm not yet good enough to make these on my own, I don't feel bad about buying a pair knit by someone else.
Lunch was also unique, purchased from a food truck on-site. This one was Czech and offered big potato pancakes topped with various things. I got mine with cheese and salad, and it was like eating a huge potato latke, with some veggies on top for fun.
I managed to happily spend all day at the Arts Center, with some sun breaks in the courtyard to listen to local music. I ended the day with a quick trip to the Christchurch art gallery to check out their exhibit on contemporary Maori weaving. Many of the items were interpretations of ceremonial capes, woven out of flax and other plant fibers and lavishly decorated with paua shell, bird feathers, and other natural items. The baskets were also quite interesting, ranging from functional to purely decorative.
It's been quite a day. The locals at breakfast assured me that tomorrow would be clear (and I'm holding them to it), which invites a trip up the gondola to a lookout point above the city.
Thursday, April 12, 2007
The $200 Apple Incident
The bus from Hervey Bay to Brisbane was nice and uneventful. This bus driver treated everyone like adults and as a result we had a smooth, pleasant ride :) Tinbilly's, the hostel I had booked in Brisbane, was right across from the transit center and so I was able to drop my stuff and go exploring. To be honest, the only thing I really did was to visit an outdoor store to buy long underwear for my trek in NZ. Or if it's really that cold, I might just wear it all the time :)
Thursday I took the convenient airport link train from the transit center to the airport for my flight to Sydney. I was astonished to learn that there is no free transport between the domestic and international terminals and I was required to pay $4.70 to get there on the subway. Is there another airport in the world with this set-up? I arrived at the international terminal, only to wait more than an hour to check my luggage. Virgin Blue (or Pacific Blue) really is something. They do not offer complementary drinks (all items, including coke are for sale) or blankets/pillows on any of their flights, including this international one. They make Southwest look downright luxurious by comparison.
The real problems began when I went through the NZ Biosecurity checkpoint. I had declared food (one jar each of nutella and peanut butter) and stated that I had been hiking in the last 30 days. They checked out my boots... no problem, unlike when I had arrived in Australia. NZ doesn't take your word for it, however, they put all your luggage through an x-ray machine to ensure you're telling the truth. Apparently I had a small apple from the Fraser Island in the bottom of my bag; I had completely forgotten it was there. If I had declared this innocuous piece of fruit, they would simply have confiscated it. But because I had not, even though I was not deliberately trying to bring contraband into the country, they charged me a fine of NZ$200 right then and there. And this was for an unintentional offense. Am I the only one who finds this a tad bit unfair? If I was a NZ citizen who knew the rules, that would be one thing. But I truly forgot about the damn apple. A slap on the wrist, in my opinion, would be a lot more appropriate.
To top it all off, the Uni games are being held in Christchurch this weekend and beds are in short supply. I had to call almost every hostel listed at the airport before snagging the last bed at Coker's. This turned out to be not so lucky after all, since my thin blanket did little to insulate me from the cold window adjacent to my bed; I spent a very sleepless night.
Did I mention it's cold in Christchurch right now? Really cold? I am grateful for the hooded sweatshirt I purchased last minute at the Sydney airport; it's currently my warmest item of clothing. But things are looking up: I've moved into a more centrally located YHA, and am about to go exploring. Now if I can just put the apple incident behind me :)
Thursday I took the convenient airport link train from the transit center to the airport for my flight to Sydney. I was astonished to learn that there is no free transport between the domestic and international terminals and I was required to pay $4.70 to get there on the subway. Is there another airport in the world with this set-up? I arrived at the international terminal, only to wait more than an hour to check my luggage. Virgin Blue (or Pacific Blue) really is something. They do not offer complementary drinks (all items, including coke are for sale) or blankets/pillows on any of their flights, including this international one. They make Southwest look downright luxurious by comparison.
The real problems began when I went through the NZ Biosecurity checkpoint. I had declared food (one jar each of nutella and peanut butter) and stated that I had been hiking in the last 30 days. They checked out my boots... no problem, unlike when I had arrived in Australia. NZ doesn't take your word for it, however, they put all your luggage through an x-ray machine to ensure you're telling the truth. Apparently I had a small apple from the Fraser Island in the bottom of my bag; I had completely forgotten it was there. If I had declared this innocuous piece of fruit, they would simply have confiscated it. But because I had not, even though I was not deliberately trying to bring contraband into the country, they charged me a fine of NZ$200 right then and there. And this was for an unintentional offense. Am I the only one who finds this a tad bit unfair? If I was a NZ citizen who knew the rules, that would be one thing. But I truly forgot about the damn apple. A slap on the wrist, in my opinion, would be a lot more appropriate.
To top it all off, the Uni games are being held in Christchurch this weekend and beds are in short supply. I had to call almost every hostel listed at the airport before snagging the last bed at Coker's. This turned out to be not so lucky after all, since my thin blanket did little to insulate me from the cold window adjacent to my bed; I spent a very sleepless night.
Did I mention it's cold in Christchurch right now? Really cold? I am grateful for the hooded sweatshirt I purchased last minute at the Sydney airport; it's currently my warmest item of clothing. But things are looking up: I've moved into a more centrally located YHA, and am about to go exploring. Now if I can just put the apple incident behind me :)
Wednesday, April 11, 2007
Fraser Island
After Uncle Brian's Tour, I packed myself up and left Cairns the next morning on the 7 am bus, which I almost missed because my idiot cab driver told me to wait in the wrong place. That incident set the tone for much of the following 24 hour ride; Greyhound bus drivers think their passengers are the most idiotic people on Earth. I really don't enjoy being treated like a 5 year old, least of all by a public bus driver. I can read the signs; I know that seat belts are required and no eating and drinking are permitted on the bus. I suppose telling us not to put our feet on the seats or across the aisles makes them feel good, as does threatening to thrown anyone off the bus who dares venture into the back area. But is it really necessary to repeat this information every half hour? This barrage continued with the second bus driver. The overnight bus driver was my favorite; he just shut up and drove the damn bus.
I arrived, bright and chipper, in Hervey Bay the next morning at 6:20 am, ready for the ferry to Fraser Island. This Island is the largest sand island in the world (it contains more sand than the Sahara) and was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1992. The island is criss-crossed by single lane tracks in the sand, only accessible via 4x4. Many backpackers see Fraser island on a self-guided tour, but I was not about to entrust my livelihood to some random person with little to no 4x4 experience, especially on sand. So I took a tour.
Somehow I was expecting miles and miles of uninterrupted sand, but the center of Fraser is filled with trees and other vegetation. In fact, the roads we drove on were old logging roads created in the 1890's with the start of the timber industry on Fraser. There are many different types of eucalypts, ferns, vines, shrubs, etc. There is even a plant whose fruit contains 3x the lethal dose of cyanide in each of its segments. The Aborigines apparently solved this by leaching the fruit in water (to dissolve the cyanide and convert it to HCN), and then cooking it, to convert the HCN into gas which would then dissipate. Apparently this process is only partially successful, which accounts for high levels of Alzheimer's and Parkinson's like symptoms in people who've eaten the fruit for years.
These are the types of stories our guide Dave revelled in telling us. The first day he got off onto so many pharmacological tangents I wanted to kill him. Well, and because he also laughs at his own jokes. I mean, while it's very interesting that dangerous criminals contain much lower levels than normal of Monoamine oxidase, an inhibitory neurotransmitter, it's not really appropriate information for a tour of Fraser Island!! We discovered on the second day that it is possible to keep Dave on track by asking him very specific questions. Thank goodness.
The highlights of Fraser Island are its many freshwater lakes, created when depressions occur in sand that is totally saturated with water. A type of rock called coffee rock forms the floor of the lakes and prevents the water from seeping back out if the water table in the sand were to fall. The high water table has also created numerous freshwater creeks, the largest of which, Eli Creek, can be ridden down in an inner tube. Unfortunately, it was very wet for 2 of the three days we were there, which made swimming an afterthought. I got so drenched walking to Lake Mirabee, though, that I decided I might as well just go for a swim. I was just in time for the antics of about 6 American frat boys, who decided that it would be really fun to get naked and roll down the sand slope into the lake below. Did I mention how proud I am of my country?
Actually, I had lots of fun. The sand, ocean, and freshwater lakes are just gorgeous, and it certainly was an adventure driving across bumpy sand tracks in a large bus built on a truck base. I met a very nice Belgian girl named Masha with whom I hung out for most of the trip, and none of my trip mates were drunken goons. And we saw a Dingo (wild Australian dog). All and all, not a bad trip.
I arrived, bright and chipper, in Hervey Bay the next morning at 6:20 am, ready for the ferry to Fraser Island. This Island is the largest sand island in the world (it contains more sand than the Sahara) and was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1992. The island is criss-crossed by single lane tracks in the sand, only accessible via 4x4. Many backpackers see Fraser island on a self-guided tour, but I was not about to entrust my livelihood to some random person with little to no 4x4 experience, especially on sand. So I took a tour.
Somehow I was expecting miles and miles of uninterrupted sand, but the center of Fraser is filled with trees and other vegetation. In fact, the roads we drove on were old logging roads created in the 1890's with the start of the timber industry on Fraser. There are many different types of eucalypts, ferns, vines, shrubs, etc. There is even a plant whose fruit contains 3x the lethal dose of cyanide in each of its segments. The Aborigines apparently solved this by leaching the fruit in water (to dissolve the cyanide and convert it to HCN), and then cooking it, to convert the HCN into gas which would then dissipate. Apparently this process is only partially successful, which accounts for high levels of Alzheimer's and Parkinson's like symptoms in people who've eaten the fruit for years.
These are the types of stories our guide Dave revelled in telling us. The first day he got off onto so many pharmacological tangents I wanted to kill him. Well, and because he also laughs at his own jokes. I mean, while it's very interesting that dangerous criminals contain much lower levels than normal of Monoamine oxidase, an inhibitory neurotransmitter, it's not really appropriate information for a tour of Fraser Island!! We discovered on the second day that it is possible to keep Dave on track by asking him very specific questions. Thank goodness.
The highlights of Fraser Island are its many freshwater lakes, created when depressions occur in sand that is totally saturated with water. A type of rock called coffee rock forms the floor of the lakes and prevents the water from seeping back out if the water table in the sand were to fall. The high water table has also created numerous freshwater creeks, the largest of which, Eli Creek, can be ridden down in an inner tube. Unfortunately, it was very wet for 2 of the three days we were there, which made swimming an afterthought. I got so drenched walking to Lake Mirabee, though, that I decided I might as well just go for a swim. I was just in time for the antics of about 6 American frat boys, who decided that it would be really fun to get naked and roll down the sand slope into the lake below. Did I mention how proud I am of my country?
Actually, I had lots of fun. The sand, ocean, and freshwater lakes are just gorgeous, and it certainly was an adventure driving across bumpy sand tracks in a large bus built on a truck base. I met a very nice Belgian girl named Masha with whom I hung out for most of the trip, and none of my trip mates were drunken goons. And we saw a Dingo (wild Australian dog). All and all, not a bad trip.
Uncle Brian's Tour
It's a shame that so much time has passed between this journal entry and the tour, because I'm sure there are tons of funny anecdotes I no longer remember. But alas, that's how it goes sometimes. My last day in Cairns, I decided to go on a tour of the Atherton Tablelands, highly recommended by Karenza, the FINA volunteer I had met in Melbourne.
Uncle Brian's Tour is a tour (obviously), but it is as much about silliness as it is about the scenery. Since Uncle Brian had a newborn at home, we were guided by "Cousin Paul," aboard "Gus the Bus". Gus has emotions and feelings of his own; for example he was very upset when we didn't encounter his "girlfriend" Volveena (a Volvo milk truck) at her usual spot on the tour. He expressed this by almost stalling and letting his windshield sprayers go on full blast.
The tour is billed as "Fun, Falls, and Forest", and I think that's pretty accurate. We went swimming in 4 different places over the day, each with a different unique geological feature. The first was in a temperate rainforest and involved floating down some very small rapids. Next we went to Jospephine Falls, which actually consists of three waterfalls, all running into each other. This one sports a natural rockslide which is tons of fun to go down, provided you can get to the top of it without slipping on the very slick algae covered rocks. I needed a push from the person behind me more than once. I went down feet first, head first, backwards, and spinning. Except for the water up my nose, it was tons of fun.
Easily the most impressive waterfall on the tour is Milla Milla (the Aboriginal name meaning lots of water), a single waterfall cascading past fern covered rocks into a large pool. It has apparently been featured in a Qantas commercial, and a very cheesy shampoo ad from the '80s which involved women throwing back their wet hair to create arcs of water droplets as they posed in front of the falls. Many in the group felt the need to re-create this ad; I didn't. I did, however, go behind the falls and swim through it; the force of the water as you pass through is impressive.
The final swim of the day was in a huge lake in a volcanic caldera. Unlike the others, this one was actually quite warm. There were also turtles to watch as they stuck just their noses out of the water to breathe. Turtle locomotion is very specific; they move opposing limbs together in a precise rhythm. The animal highlight of the day, however, was definitely seeing a platypus swimming in the river. Unfortunately he didn't stick around long (I'm sure the noise of everyone pulling out their cameras scared him off), but I have now seen a monotreme in the wild, which is a great thing.
The ride home consisted of more silliness, mostly sing-alongs. Lots of '60's Motown and some musicals. But no John Denver, even after I made a special effort to remember the words to Country Roads and Leaving on a Jet Plane. Ah well.
Uncle Brian's Tour is a tour (obviously), but it is as much about silliness as it is about the scenery. Since Uncle Brian had a newborn at home, we were guided by "Cousin Paul," aboard "Gus the Bus". Gus has emotions and feelings of his own; for example he was very upset when we didn't encounter his "girlfriend" Volveena (a Volvo milk truck) at her usual spot on the tour. He expressed this by almost stalling and letting his windshield sprayers go on full blast.
The tour is billed as "Fun, Falls, and Forest", and I think that's pretty accurate. We went swimming in 4 different places over the day, each with a different unique geological feature. The first was in a temperate rainforest and involved floating down some very small rapids. Next we went to Jospephine Falls, which actually consists of three waterfalls, all running into each other. This one sports a natural rockslide which is tons of fun to go down, provided you can get to the top of it without slipping on the very slick algae covered rocks. I needed a push from the person behind me more than once. I went down feet first, head first, backwards, and spinning. Except for the water up my nose, it was tons of fun.
Easily the most impressive waterfall on the tour is Milla Milla (the Aboriginal name meaning lots of water), a single waterfall cascading past fern covered rocks into a large pool. It has apparently been featured in a Qantas commercial, and a very cheesy shampoo ad from the '80s which involved women throwing back their wet hair to create arcs of water droplets as they posed in front of the falls. Many in the group felt the need to re-create this ad; I didn't. I did, however, go behind the falls and swim through it; the force of the water as you pass through is impressive.
The final swim of the day was in a huge lake in a volcanic caldera. Unlike the others, this one was actually quite warm. There were also turtles to watch as they stuck just their noses out of the water to breathe. Turtle locomotion is very specific; they move opposing limbs together in a precise rhythm. The animal highlight of the day, however, was definitely seeing a platypus swimming in the river. Unfortunately he didn't stick around long (I'm sure the noise of everyone pulling out their cameras scared him off), but I have now seen a monotreme in the wild, which is a great thing.
The ride home consisted of more silliness, mostly sing-alongs. Lots of '60's Motown and some musicals. But no John Denver, even after I made a special effort to remember the words to Country Roads and Leaving on a Jet Plane. Ah well.
Thursday, April 5, 2007
Great Barrier Reef
My planned trip to the reef hit a huge snag before I even got on the boat; at around 7 pm the night before, the tour I was on to say that they had to cancel because the boat didn't work. Of all the things!!! So that left me scrambling at the last minute to find an overnight trip I could take instead. I wound up on one called ReefQuest, which really wasn't bad, except that I would have preferred many fewer people.
My big accomplishment is spending two days on a boat and not throwing up (not much of an accomplishment, I know), although I was feeling a little queasy on the return trip. They made us wear wetsuits to get in the water, even though the temperature was pleasantly warm. I guess it's for buoyancy, but man are those things uncomfortable. The second day I wore a stinger suit (a thin suit with long arms and legs). It made me look like a demented speed skater, but it was much more pleasant to wear.
I went snorkeling four times over the course of the trip. What really disappointed me was how washed out and dead much of the coral was in this area. I don't know if it's from people diving or other environmental factors, but it's very sad. We even got up to do a trip at 6:30 am the second morning, just as the sun was starting to come up. My favorite snorkel was the last one of the trip. I don't know whether I had finally gotten the hang of it, or was just in a better area, but there were fish everywhere. I saw a white tipped reef shark, giant clams, anemone fish (like Nemo), schools of little tiny fish, lots of very colorful parrotfish, angelfish, and surgeonfish. The waves and currents were quite strong, so you had to fight to stay in your desired position. Other than that, the trip was amazing.
The boat we spent the night on is very nice, with spacious cabins (no bunk beds), real showers, and several nice common areas. I still would have preferred to be on my little 12 person boat, but I can't complain too much about this one. There were a number of people on board doing either their PADI open water certification, or taking an advanced dive course. I have to admit I was a bit jealous. Someday I will, I keep telling myself :)
It was nice just to hang out on the deck of the boat, feel the breeze and the sun on my face, and look at the ocean. I read an entire 400 page book on the trip, so obviously it was very relaxing. tomorrow I'm off to explore the Atherton tablelands. See you soon.
My big accomplishment is spending two days on a boat and not throwing up (not much of an accomplishment, I know), although I was feeling a little queasy on the return trip. They made us wear wetsuits to get in the water, even though the temperature was pleasantly warm. I guess it's for buoyancy, but man are those things uncomfortable. The second day I wore a stinger suit (a thin suit with long arms and legs). It made me look like a demented speed skater, but it was much more pleasant to wear.
I went snorkeling four times over the course of the trip. What really disappointed me was how washed out and dead much of the coral was in this area. I don't know if it's from people diving or other environmental factors, but it's very sad. We even got up to do a trip at 6:30 am the second morning, just as the sun was starting to come up. My favorite snorkel was the last one of the trip. I don't know whether I had finally gotten the hang of it, or was just in a better area, but there were fish everywhere. I saw a white tipped reef shark, giant clams, anemone fish (like Nemo), schools of little tiny fish, lots of very colorful parrotfish, angelfish, and surgeonfish. The waves and currents were quite strong, so you had to fight to stay in your desired position. Other than that, the trip was amazing.
The boat we spent the night on is very nice, with spacious cabins (no bunk beds), real showers, and several nice common areas. I still would have preferred to be on my little 12 person boat, but I can't complain too much about this one. There were a number of people on board doing either their PADI open water certification, or taking an advanced dive course. I have to admit I was a bit jealous. Someday I will, I keep telling myself :)
It was nice just to hang out on the deck of the boat, feel the breeze and the sun on my face, and look at the ocean. I read an entire 400 page book on the trip, so obviously it was very relaxing. tomorrow I'm off to explore the Atherton tablelands. See you soon.
Monday, April 2, 2007
If you want your pillow, don't sit in the exit row
Late yesterday evening I flew from Melbourne to Cairns, on the northern eastern Australian coast. It's the departure point for most Great Barrier Reef trips; I'm taking mine tomorrow and Thursday. This was also my first experience with domestic Australian airlines, a shoot-off of Virgin Atlantic named Virgin Blue.
At check-in, the attendant asked me if I wanted to be seated in the exit row. Well, duh, of course I did. However, Australian flight attendants are militant about their exit rows. Not only can you not have anything under the seat in front of you for the entire flight, you cannot even have a pillow and blanket during take-off and landing. They make you store them in the overhead bin or threaten to relocate you (Cailin, you can relate to this, I'm sure).
I have been on a lot of plane flights in my life now, and I have NEVER encountered any regulations like this. I was told that the blanket could interfere with departure from the emergency exit. If we have to leave via the emergency exit, I'm thinking my blanket is going to be the very least of anyone's worries.
What really pissed me off, though, was the attendant's assertion that stringent rules such as this account for Australian airlines' "excellent safety record." Now there's a beautiful example of someone messing up correlation and causation. No, I think Australia has an excellent safety record because 1) until recently they only had one major carrier, Qantas 2) the weather is excellent and they don't have to deal with snow and ice on their planes and runways, and 3) the overall volume of flights in Australia is quite low, compared with the US and Europe. I don't think my not being allowed to have a blanket in the exit row has a damn thing to do with it.
At check-in, the attendant asked me if I wanted to be seated in the exit row. Well, duh, of course I did. However, Australian flight attendants are militant about their exit rows. Not only can you not have anything under the seat in front of you for the entire flight, you cannot even have a pillow and blanket during take-off and landing. They make you store them in the overhead bin or threaten to relocate you (Cailin, you can relate to this, I'm sure).
I have been on a lot of plane flights in my life now, and I have NEVER encountered any regulations like this. I was told that the blanket could interfere with departure from the emergency exit. If we have to leave via the emergency exit, I'm thinking my blanket is going to be the very least of anyone's worries.
What really pissed me off, though, was the attendant's assertion that stringent rules such as this account for Australian airlines' "excellent safety record." Now there's a beautiful example of someone messing up correlation and causation. No, I think Australia has an excellent safety record because 1) until recently they only had one major carrier, Qantas 2) the weather is excellent and they don't have to deal with snow and ice on their planes and runways, and 3) the overall volume of flights in Australia is quite low, compared with the US and Europe. I don't think my not being allowed to have a blanket in the exit row has a damn thing to do with it.
Sunday, April 1, 2007
10 years??!!
I got to do my first little bit of vetting last night: Alex the cat brought a baby ring-tailed possum for everyone to admire. One of the girls managed to get it out of his mouth and brought it to me, because clearly I know so much about Australian wildlife. Aside from being scared out of its wits, and damp from Alex's saliva, the possum did not appear to be damaged. I put him in a bag with some towels and we called the wildlife rehab people, who recommended keeping him in a quiet, warm, dark place until morning. A Dutch couple volunteered to possum sit, and we got him set up in Alex's cat carrier with some towels, water, and a hot water bottle I found in my room.
He was happily still alive the next morning. I really felt we should bring him to the wildlife rehab place, since he seemed very young and I wasn't at all confident of his ability to survive in the wild. A local vet checked him out and agreed... he will spend a few days growing a bit before they release him. I'm glad my instincts were right, even if I have not a clue about the Australian ring-tailed possum.
At some point most of the people I meet travelling ask me how many years I spent in school in order to become a vet. Their typical response is then "10 years... are you insane?" Even my explaining that it really only takes 8 doesn't seem to mollify them, whereas it's not something I think that much about. Going to undergrad was not even really a choice; I always knew that I would go to college. And among all my friends, graduate education is not so odd either. Among all of us, we have doctors, lawyers, CPAs, MBAs, vets, and multiple PhD candidates. I think it is easier in other countries to have a good career without graduate education, whereas it is becoming more and more expected in the US.
It's definitely food for thought. A starting worker in Germany will get a minimum of 26 days vacation, whereas one in the US is lucky to get 10. Sabbaticals and leaves of absence seem infinitely more prevalent in Europe. We may have more high-powered careers, but I am thinking they have more fun :)
He was happily still alive the next morning. I really felt we should bring him to the wildlife rehab place, since he seemed very young and I wasn't at all confident of his ability to survive in the wild. A local vet checked him out and agreed... he will spend a few days growing a bit before they release him. I'm glad my instincts were right, even if I have not a clue about the Australian ring-tailed possum.
At some point most of the people I meet travelling ask me how many years I spent in school in order to become a vet. Their typical response is then "10 years... are you insane?" Even my explaining that it really only takes 8 doesn't seem to mollify them, whereas it's not something I think that much about. Going to undergrad was not even really a choice; I always knew that I would go to college. And among all my friends, graduate education is not so odd either. Among all of us, we have doctors, lawyers, CPAs, MBAs, vets, and multiple PhD candidates. I think it is easier in other countries to have a good career without graduate education, whereas it is becoming more and more expected in the US.
It's definitely food for thought. A starting worker in Germany will get a minimum of 26 days vacation, whereas one in the US is lucky to get 10. Sabbaticals and leaves of absence seem infinitely more prevalent in Europe. We may have more high-powered careers, but I am thinking they have more fun :)
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